Mother's World Hotel - Mandalay, Burma

Mother's World Hotel - Mandalay, Burma

$27 for double room with A/C and breakfast (February, 2013)

Mother's World will do in a pinch, but you'd be better off searching elsewhere if you are looking for amenities, customer service, or clean sheets. The rooms are dingy (think 1965), the included breakfast is unappetizing, the location is just okay, and the non-English speaking staff is friendly, but unable to offer much assistance for things like booking busses or pointing you in the direction of a lunch spot. They get 2 Happy Travelers because a few of the staff were friendly enough to (somewhat) make up for the lack of character at this spot. 

We give Mother's World...2 Happy Travelers!

Marie Min Vegetarian Restaurant - Mandalay, Burma

Marie Min Vegetarian Restaurant - Mandalay, Burma

This is a great option for lunch or dinner (can't vouch for breakfast, but I'm sure it's good as well). The food is clean and safe to eat - they use boiled water in their preparation - and they have perfected items you'll find on many Burma menus; guacamole, tomato salad, chocolate/peanut butter/banana milkshakes. The owners and staff are eager to please, and the rooftop location is charming. The owner's son has just married a Thai girl and they opened a Thai restaurant across the lane, Rainforest, and you can expect the same customer service, ambiance, and reliably good, clean food from them as well.

We give Marie Min...4 Happy Travelers!

Rainforest Thai Restaurant - Mandalay, Burma

Rainforest Thai Restaurant - Mandalay, Burma

Rainforest will definitely be a popular place for tourists now that it's open, and I'm guessing it will have it's own mention in Lonely Planet in the next edition. The food is good (and clean, thanks to boiled water preparation), the staff is fun and always smiling and laughing, the setting is cozy and appealing, and they have FREE WIFI! The owner of Rainforest is the daughter-in-law of the owners at Marie Min Vegetarian Restaurant, located across the lane. Both are good choices!

We give Rainforest...4 Happy Travelers!

Ayone Guest House - Kaukme, Burma

Ayone Guest House - Kaukme, Burma

$25 for double room w/ A/C, TV, and bathroom (Feb, 2013)

$18 for double room w/o A/C, no TV, and shared bathroom (Feb, 2013)

As this is the only guest house in town (and likely to stay that way since the owner is on the city council), it doesn't really matter what we say about it. If you want to go to Kaukme (to trek into Shan villages), you'll probably spend a night or two at Ayone. Still, for having no competition, the company is surprisingly attentive to guests and is good at assisting with the process of finding a guide, storing your bags, and booking busses out of Kaukme. They have free filtered drinking water, which is always awesome. They did lose our reservation for our 2nd night there (after 3 nights of trekking), which was frustrating, but they had a room for us, just not as nice as we had wanted. If you can make the splurge, opt for a room with a bathroom. The shared bathrooms are a little dingy.

We give Ayone...3 Happy Travelers!

Kaukme Trekking Experience - Kaukme, Burma

Kaukme Trekking Experience - Kaukme, Burma

We were turned off by the thought of the hordes of tourist trekkers in Kalaw and had been told by a friend that Kaukme is a great alternative, and it was. (We used Moe Set as our guide, who was fantastic! Read our review here.) We opted for a 3 day/2 night trek and chose not to use a motor bike for any of it. We walked about 5-6 hours each day, taking several water and snack stops, visiting schools and monasteries, and having lunch in local villages. At night, we stayed in the homes of villagers who cooked our meals and offered us bedding. They never spoke any English, but we always felt welcome in their homes. The hiking is strenuous at times - climbing steep hills on loose dirt and gravel in the midday sun - but if you're in decent shape, you should be fine. The experience is really a great one. Keep in mind, however, that this hike is about the people and seeing village life. You're not likely to be wowed by the views - the landscape looks very similar to many hikes we can do at home - and it's unlikely you'll see much wildlife. In fact, the only animals we saw were a few pigeons, some small birds, a handful of brightly colored butterflies, and swarms of bees. 

We give Kaukme Trekking...4 Happy Travelers!

Moe Set - Trekking Guide - Kaukme, Burma

Moe Set - Trekking Guide - Kaukme, Burma

15000Kyat/day for lodging, guide and all meals

Moe Set may be one of the kindest and purest people you'll ever meet. It was an absolutely pleasure spending 3 days with him, even when we were hot, sore and tired and facing another hill to climb. He's new to the trekking business (he previously studied philosophy at a university in Mandalay and has plans to return), but he's well-liked in the villages and was attentive to our needs throughout the trek, offering us snacks when we needed a boost, encouraging us when we were tired, and suggesting a slower pace when we reached our limits. More than that, he truly loves Burma and his people and has so much to share about his culture, which he happily does. He has big aspirations for his future and really wants to improve the lives of the Shan villagers. This is evident as he speaks passionately about the political and economic issues facing the region, brings extra snacks in his backpack to give to the children of the poorer families, and teaches an impromptu lesson at a village school when a teacher is absent. He really is the kind of person who inspires everyone around him to live more considerately and deliberately. If you are interested in giving your money or time to help in one of the villages, Moe Set is a great guy to ask - he's tapped into the needs of the community and will help direct the funds or point you in the right direction.

asiaboy.myanmar@gmail.com
09-403725869

We give Moe Set...5 Happy Travelers!

Grace I Hotel - Pyin Oo Lwin, Burma

Grace I Hotel - Pyin Oo Lwin, Burma

$25 for double room with breakfast and bathroom

In truth, we never actually slept at Grace I. We paid for one night's lodging and we hung out there for a few hours, resting after a long bus ride, but we were less-than-impressed with the quality of the room for the price, so we moved. Our room was technically clean, but had a pretty grimy feeling, and the bathroom walls were covered with mildew. The shower head was located almost directly above the toilet and had a drip-drop leak so that, when you sat on the loo, you had a droplet of water dropping on your head or lap every few seconds. (I suppose the advantage of this is that you can take care of your….ahem….bathroom business while washing your hair, if you're in to multi-tasking.) We would have been happy with the room had it cost $9 or $10 but, for $25, we were disappointed. When we stumbled upon San Francisco Guest House for lunch the day we arrived (after we'd already spent several hours in our Grace I room), we decided to check out the rooms. For only $5 more a night, we were offered a much nicer room, so we switched. We did return to Grace I the next morning to have the breakfast that was included in our room rate and it was one of the best breakfasts we've had in Burma. Omelet, fresh fruit, real jam. And the staff at this spot are really kind and helpful. With a few upgrades (or with lower prices), this could be a winner.

We give Grace I...3 Happy Travelers!