Monday, February 25, 2013

Mother's World Hotel - Mandalay, Burma


Mother's World Hotel - Mandalay, Burma
$27 for double room with A/C and breakfast (February, 2013)

Mother's World will do in a pinch, but you'd be better off searching elsewhere if you are looking for amenities, customer service, or clean sheets. The rooms are dingy (think 1965), the included breakfast is unappetizing, the location is just okay, and the non-English speaking staff is friendly, but unable to offer much assistance for things like booking busses or pointing you in the direction of a lunch spot. They get 2 Happy Travelers because a few of the staff were friendly enough to (somewhat) make up for the lack of character at this spot. 

We give Mother's World...2 Happy Travelers!

Marie Min Vegetarian Restaurant - Mandalay, Burma


Marie Min Vegetarian Restaurant - Mandalay, Burma

This is a great option for lunch or dinner (can't vouch for breakfast, but I'm sure it's good as well). The food is clean and safe to eat - they use boiled water in their preparation - and they have perfected items you'll find on many Burma menus; guacamole, tomato salad, chocolate/peanut butter/banana milkshakes. The owners and staff are eager to please, and the rooftop location is charming. The owner's son has just married a Thai girl and they opened a Thai restaurant across the lane, Rainforest, and you can expect the same customer service, ambiance, and reliably good, clean food from them as well.

We give Marie Min...4 Happy Travelers!

Rainforest Thai Restaurant - Mandalay, Burma


Rainforest Thai Restaurant - Mandalay, Burma
Rainforest will definitely be a popular place for tourists now that it's open, and I'm guessing it will have it's own mention in Lonely Planet in the next edition. The food is good (and clean, thanks to boiled water preparation), the staff is fun and always smiling and laughing, the setting is cozy and appealing, and they have FREE WIFI! The owner of Rainforest is the daughter-in-law of the owners at Marie Min Vegetarian Restaurant, located across the lane. Both are good choices!

We give Rainforest...4 Happy Travelers!

Ayone Guest House - Kaukme, Burma

Ayone Guest House - Kaukme, Burma
$25 for double room w/ A/C, TV, and bathroom (Feb, 2013)
$18 for double room w/o A/C, no TV, and shared bathroom (Feb, 2013)

As this is the only guest house in town (and likely to stay that way since the owner is on the city council), it doesn't really matter what we say about it. If you want to go to Kaukme (to trek into Shan villages), you'll probably spend a night or two at Ayone. Still, for having no competition, the company is surprisingly attentive to guests and is good at assisting with the process of finding a guide, storing your bags, and booking busses out of Kaukme. They have free filtered drinking water, which is always awesome. They did lose our reservation for our 2nd night there (after 3 nights of trekking), which was frustrating, but they had a room for us, just not as nice as we had wanted. If you can make the splurge, opt for a room with a bathroom. The shared bathrooms are a little dingy.

We give Ayone...3 Happy Travelers!


Kaukme Trekking Experience - Kaukme, Burma

Kaukme Trekking Experience - Kaukme, Burma

We were turned off by the thought of the hordes of tourist trekkers in Kalaw and had been told by a friend that Kaukme is a great alternative, and it was. (We used Moe Set as our guide, who was fantastic! Read our review here.) We opted for a 3 day/2 night trek and chose not to use a motor bike for any of it. We walked about 5-6 hours each day, taking several water and snack stops, visiting schools and monasteries, and having lunch in local villages. At night, we stayed in the homes of villagers who cooked our meals and offered us bedding. They never spoke any English, but we always felt welcome in their homes. The hiking is strenuous at times - climbing steep hills on loose dirt and gravel in the midday sun - but if you're in decent shape, you should be fine. The experience is really a great one. Keep in mind, however, that this hike is about the people and seeing village life. You're not likely to be wowed by the views - the landscape looks very similar to many hikes we can do at home - and it's unlikely you'll see much wildlife. In fact, the only animals we saw were a few pigeons, some small birds, a handful of brightly colored butterflies, and swarms of bees. 

We give Kaukme Trekking...4 Happy Travelers!

Moe Set - Trekking Guide - Kaukme, Burma

Moe Set - Trekking Guide - Kaukme, Burma
15000Kyat/day for lodging, guide and all meals

Moe Set may be one of the kindest and purest people you'll ever meet. It was an absolutely pleasure spending 3 days with him, even when we were hot, sore and tired and facing another hill to climb. He's new to the trekking business (he previously studied philosophy at a university in Mandalay and has plans to return), but he's well-liked in the villages and was attentive to our needs throughout the trek, offering us snacks when we needed a boost, encouraging us when we were tired, and suggesting a slower pace when we reached our limits. More than that, he truly loves Burma and his people and has so much to share about his culture, which he happily does. He has big aspirations for his future and really wants to improve the lives of the Shan villagers. This is evident as he speaks passionately about the political and economic issues facing the region, brings extra snacks in his backpack to give to the children of the poorer families, and teaches an impromptu lesson at a village school when a teacher is absent. He really is the kind of person who inspires everyone around him to live more considerately and deliberately. If you are interested in giving your money or time to help in one of the villages, Moe Set is a great guy to ask - he's tapped into the needs of the community and will help direct the funds or point you in the right direction.

asiaboy.myanmar@gmail.com
09-403725869

We give Moe Set...5 Happy Travelers!

Grace I Hotel - Pyin Oo Lwin, Burma

Grace I Hotel - Pyin Oo Lwin, Burma
$25 for double room with breakfast and bathroom

In truth, we never actually slept at Grace I. We paid for one night's lodging and we hung out there for a few hours, resting after a long bus ride, but we were less-than-impressed with the quality of the room for the price, so we moved. Our room was technically clean, but had a pretty grimy feeling, and the bathroom walls were covered with mildew. The shower head was located almost directly above the toilet and had a drip-drop leak so that, when you sat on the loo, you had a droplet of water dropping on your head or lap every few seconds. (I suppose the advantage of this is that you can take care of your….ahem….bathroom business while washing your hair, if you're in to multi-tasking.) We would have been happy with the room had it cost $9 or $10 but, for $25, we were disappointed. When we stumbled upon San Francisco Guest House for lunch the day we arrived (after we'd already spent several hours in our Grace I room), we decided to check out the rooms. For only $5 more a night, we were offered a much nicer room, so we switched. We did return to Grace I the next morning to have the breakfast that was included in our room rate and it was one of the best breakfasts we've had in Burma. Omelet, fresh fruit, real jam. And the staff at this spot are really kind and helpful. With a few upgrades (or with lower prices), this could be a winner.

We give Grace I...3 Happy Travelers!



San Francisco Guest House - Pyin Oo Lwin, Burma


San Francisco Guest House - Pyin Oo Lwin, Myanmar
$30 for double cottage with breakfast and bathroom

Though we had paid for a room at Grace I Hotel, we stumbled upon San Francisco (represent!) Guest House for lunch and decided to stay there instead, forfeiting our fee for one night at Grace I in favor of a more comfortable room. The rooms at SF are clean, airy, and simple, with upgrades like small flat screen TVs, tiny vanities, and small porches. After we arrived, we realized that the property is Chinese-owned and probably associated with the government, so we have to deduct a point for that. We were upset about contributing money to the government but, having paid for 2 rooms at this point, were left with few options other than paying for a third room, which would REALLY break the budget. So we stayed. Still, both the Chinese and Burmese staff were very friendly and accommodating and were eager to make sure our stay was enjoyable. The room comes with breakfast, but the restaurant isn't really that great, so you should have your meals elsewhere. We also looked at the $40/night cottages, which were really nice and definitely worth the $40. It just wasn't in our budget, or we would have considered it. 

We give San Francisco...4 Happy Travelers!







The Lost Resort - Ko Samet, Thailand


The Lost Resort - Ko Samet, Thailand 
1000BHT for AC (in February, 2013)

This place is run by a British expat and is about a 7 minute walk from the beach, up the hill and in a grove. The rooms are simple but clean and, for this price, you will enjoy warm (not hot) showers, an in-room mini-fridge, a TV with English-speaking channels, free WiFi, A/C, and 2 waters of mineral water each day. It's well worth the price, but we just didn't need all these amenities and were hoping to spend a little less, so we only stayed 2 nights before moving down the road. Still, if you are looking for a bit of comfort but are still on a budget, The Lost Resort is a great option! 

We give The Lost Restort...4 Happy Travelers!

Anjali Hotel - Mumbai, Maharashtra, India


Anjali Hotel - Mumbai, India
Rs1800 (in January, 2013)

This is a great option if you just need to crash for a night by the airport. It's only 5km from the domestic airport and 1km from international. It's a business hotel with no frills, but it's a well-run business. We arrived late one evening (on a domestic flight) and left early the next morning (on an international flight). They provided free pickup from the domestic airport and arranged for a cheap ride to the international airport. The room was very small but very clean and had a spotless bathroom, A/C, a TV, and free WiFi. They don't have food or water or any extra services, but they did knock on our door to provide a wake-up call and greeted us warmly even though it was early and we were grumpy. And, for Mumbai, this price can't be beat. 

We give Anjali...5 Happy Travelers!

Casa Linda - Fort Cochin, Kerala, India


Casa Linda - Fort Cochin, Kerala, India

Suffering from the Lonely Planet Curse, this place was maybe once something special. It really isn't now. There's nothing really wrong here, there's just not much that's really right. The food was satisfying but unremarkable. The service was attentive but not overly friendly. The location is close enough to walk to but not so close to the main tourist area to make it convenient. If you're in the area, it's worth a quick stop, but don't go out of your way for this place.

We give Casa Linda...3 Happy Travelers!










Patnem Beach - Potnem, Goa, India


Patnem Beach - Potnem, Goa, India

If we got to do it again, I think we'd skip Palolem and, instead, spend our time at quieter Patnem (sometimes spelled 'Potnem'). Just a short 15 minute walk from Palolem, Potnem has fewer tourists and touts, some nicer (but cheaper) guest houses, and some very comfortable beach front restaurants where you can enjoy your lassi while staring at the sea and surfing the web on free wifi. There are fewer amenities (barber shops, book stores, shipping stores) than in Palolem, but that's nothing a quick walk couldn't fix.

We give Potnem...4 Happy Travelers!

Cafe Fiesta - Palolem, Goa, India


Cafe Fiesta - Palolem, Goa, India

You think you know everything about yogurt (curd) and granola/muesli, but Cafe Fiesta will rock your world. That sounds ridiculous, doesn't it? I don't know why it's so good, but they make amazing homemade muesli and even their yogurt is made in-house. My favorite is the curd with muesli, bananas, honey, and freshly shaved coconut. It's amazing and I can't wait to make it at home. The omelets are big and full of cheese, tomato and onion. They also make really great lattes and cappuccinos. The staff is friendly and funny, the dining area is in a garden, and, located a block off the beach, the prices are more reasonable than you'll find elsewhere. (You can also find guides for canyoning and trekking here.)

We give Cafe Fiesta...5 Happy Travelers!

Cocktails & Dreams - Palolem, Goa, India

Cocktails & Dreams (formerly Silver Star) - Palolem, Goa, India
Rs700 for a double room with bathroom and TV (November, 2012)

Staying at this place is worth it just for the name. I mean, who doesn't want to stay at a place called Cocktails & Dreams?!?! We opted for one of the rooms (versus a hut), as the rooms were a bit nicer, had cleaner bathrooms, and even a TV! The room was comfortable and the staff was helpful and friendly. We stayed for 6 nights and enjoyed getting to know them. There's free WiFi on property, but you'll have to go down to the restaurant and bar to use it. The only downfall is that Cocktails & Dreams hosts the beach's only 24-hour bar, and the party can go late into the night. We only heard the revelers a few times, but we think it might be louder if you stay in one of the property's huts. Considering that huts actually OFF the beach are the same price, this is a great value.

We give Cocktails & Dreams...4 Happy Travelers!






NOTE: We just came across a few threads on review sites saying that they think they were drugged at this location by the staff. We never had anything happen to us (we never had more than 1 or 2 beers while there, so our review is for the lodging, not the bar/restaurant) so we won't change our rating. However, just use caution if you visit.
TripAdvisor thread:
http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowTopic-g2334950-i27235-k6130085-SILVER_STAR_Palolem_drink_spiking-Palolem_Canacona_Goa.html



Sevas - Palolem, Goa, India

Sevas - Palolem, Goa, India
Rs700 for a double hut with attached bathroom w/o running water (November, 2012)

We spent one night at Sevas before we left for another location. There's nothing really wrong at Sevas. It's a predictable beach shack with an open-air attached bathroom. Water is provided each day in a large tub. The property is really beautiful, with paths winding through a well-manicured garden. But - the hut construction is pretty shoddy (even by beach hut standards), the bathrooms offer no privacy, the property is very loud at night (dogs, cats, roosters, chickens), and the huts are a 7-minute walk to the beach through trash-strewn forest. Once we realized we could get a nicer room on the beach for the same price, we moved. It's just not a good value for the price.

We give Sevas...2 Happy Travelers!

Kudle Beach - Gokarna, Karnataka, India


Kudle Beach - Gokarna, Karnataka, India
Just south of Goa, Gokarna is a quieter beach alternative. But you won't actually want to hang out on Gokarna Beach, which is covered with trash and wild dogs. Instead, make the 20-minute walk to Kudle Beach. The walk will take you through a landscape that looks like cooled lava, through palm and bamboo groves with large black-faced monkeys staring at you, and will finally end on a large beach where lazy cows stand and gaze out to sea. The beach has 4 or 5 beach shack restaurants and a few guest houses offering beach huts, and a handful of beach touts walk the sand, selling sarongs, beach blankets, jewelry and hand drums. It's a great alternative to Goa, but don't expect to find the amenities that come with Arambol/Anjuna/Baga/Palolem beaches. Beyond Kudle another 10 minutes is Om Beach, which we didn't visit, but have heard is also very nice.

We give Kudle Beach...3 Happy Travelers!

Haripriya Residence - Gokarna, Karnataka, India


Haripriya Residence - Gokarna, Karnataka, India

Many visitors to Gokarna opt to stay on Kudle or Om beach, but we think Gokarna's charm is that, despite its beautiful beaches, it's still a devout temple town that still actually feels like an Indian town. Staying in town puts you a short walk from the beach, but lets you experience the wave of pilgrims and Hindus visiting temples. In our opinion, there's no better place to stay than Haripriya Residence. Anand and Ani are a wonderful couple who greet you warmly when you arrive as if you're family. In the evenings, they'll sit with you in the living room and chat about parts of India and ask about your life. In the mornings, they'll offer you tea at their own table and, you'll feel right at home! The rooms are simple, but clean and regularly updated, and include small sit-outs.

We give Haripriya...5 Happy Travelers!







Woodlands Restaurant - Udupi, Karnataka, India


Woodlands Restaurant - Udupi, Karnataka, India
Banana Buns! Perfect Thalis! Creamy Lassis! The best dosas! Just do it! This place is always packed full, and you'll likely have to wait a few minutes for a table. The owner runs an efficient business and is adamant that you have a good experience and will offer menu suggestions and give you the best table he has. Over the course of 2 days, we ate their 3 times and it was always delicious.

We give Woodlands...5 Happy Travelers!


Mysore Palace Experience - Mysore, Karnataka, India

Mysore Palace Experience - Mysore, Karnataka, India
This is definitely the main reason you visit Mysore, and it doesn't disappoint. At least, it doesn't disappoint when you visit on a night when the palace is lit up with thousands of white lights. It's a great place to spend an evening, watching visitors and families and enjoying the beautifully lit up palace. We wouldn't really recommend the inside tour of the palace. There are no signs in English, you are hurried through like cattle, and the exhibits are mostly (fairly) recent painting depicting life long ago. The actual historic artifacts are poorly maintained and behind glass, far from where you'll be standing. If you do decide to do the tour, remember to check your camera at the gate to the entrance of the palace grounds. And, while the audio tour is free, it requires a deposit of either a photo ID or $40USD each. Plan ahead!

We give Mysore Palace...3 Happy Travelers!